#120 - Conquer the Pump! Training and Tactics to Climb Your Best at the Red River Gorge (and elsewhere)

Eric Hurst's Training for Climbing Podcast delves into the intricacies of training for endurance climbing, particularly at the Red River Gorge, with insights from Chris Hampton of the Power Company and Ryan Devlin of the Struggle Podcast. The discussion emphasizes the importance of mastering aerobic and anaerobic systems, mental resilience, and recovery strategies to excel on steep, pumpy routes. Key tactics include low-point training, maintaining an aerobic base year-round, and the strategic use of supplements and nutrition for optimal performance and recovery. The episode also highlights the mental and physical adaptations necessary for success in endurance climbing.

• Focus on training both aerobic and anaerobic energy systems to enhance climbing endurance, particularly for steep routes like those at the Red River Gorge.
• Develop specific protocols to boost aerobic capacity, which is crucial for long-duration climbs.
• Understand the importance of resting effectively during climbs, a technique referred to as "resting your way up a climb."
• Recognize the mental aspects of climbing, including maintaining confidence and the ability to persevere through physically demanding sections.

"We'll discuss training both the aerobic and anaerobic energy systems and provide specific protocols for boosting your capacity in each area."

• Training both energy systems is essential for improving endurance on challenging climbs.

"Confidence is key, as is your ability to persevere through the pump and have the willingness to take some scary airfalls at times."

• Mental resilience and confidence are critical for handling the physical demands and risks of steep climbs.

• Recognize the unique challenges of the Red River Gorge, such as the need to be comfortable with prolonged periods on the wall and managing intense forearm pump.
• Training should ideally span several weeks, focusing on building local forearm endurance and aerobic capacity.
• Successive attempts on endurance routes often lead to gradual improvement, emphasizing persistence and adaptation to the climbing style.

"You have to get comfortable mentally in the space where you're really pumped and you're not sure if you can continue."

• Mental preparation is crucial for enduring the physical and psychological challenges of long, pumpy climbs.

"Successive goes, you're likely to get a little bit further, a little bit further, a little bit further. And don't give up on that."

• Persistence and repeated attempts are key strategies for success on endurance routes.

• For beginner climbers, focus on building aerobic endurance up to about 5.12 grade, which is vital for climbing at the Red River Gorge.
• Utilize a longer training cycle when possible, but even a minimum of four weeks can be effective.
• Balance endurance training with strength and power development, but prioritize endurance for Red River Gorge climbing.

"I think for the, the beginner climbers, up to about 5:12 endurance is going to be the number one thing you need in the red."

• Endurance is the primary focus for climbers aiming to succeed on Red River Gorge routes up to 5.12.

"You need about six weeks, you know, four weeks minimum, I would say."

• A training period of four to six weeks is recommended to prepare for a climbing trip to the Red River Gorge.

• Climbers should focus on developing a powerful aerobic energy system to handle long routes without excessive reliance on anaerobic power.
• Training should include exercises that enhance capillary density and mitochondrial efficiency in climbing muscles.
• Bouldering and kilter board training are less effective for Red River Gorge preparation compared to aerobic-focused training.

"If you're someone who is enamored of kilter board training or bouldering as your main training modality... it's going to be a failed approach."

• Aerobic training is more beneficial than bouldering for preparing for long endurance climbs.

"The longer a route is, the more the aerobic energy system dominates."

• Aerobic capacity is crucial for success on extended routes, as it becomes the primary energy system in use.

• Elite climbers incorporate a mix of aerobic and anaerobic training, akin to runners' training regimes, to enhance performance.
• Aerobic training involves climbing for volume, focusing on sub-maximal climbing to build endurance.
• Anaerobic training is achieved through interval training, such as the 30/30 interval, which enhances recovery skills on routes.

"An elite level runner, they do a lot of base mileage, that's their aerobic training. And then they do very specific amounts of targeted anaerobic training, which is usually done in the form of interval training."

• Explanation: This quote outlines the parallel between runners' training and climbers' training, emphasizing the importance of both aerobic and anaerobic components.

"And the climbing version of it is having one or two days a week where you're climbing for volume. That means a lot of sub-maximal climbing."

• Explanation: This highlights the aerobic aspect of climbing training, where volume and endurance are prioritized.

• The 30/30 interval is a taxing but effective training method that focuses on improving recovery during climbs.
• Recovery on routes involves transitioning between anaerobic and aerobic states, which is crucial for climbing success.
• Techniques such as using a good jug or knee bar can aid in partial recovery during climbs.

"The beauty of it is it actually trains recovery, which is what you need en route."

• Explanation: This quote emphasizes the importance of recovery training in climbing, highlighting the role of interval training in achieving this.

"And then on the harder routes, sometimes you just have to have the technique and the ability to recover on small holds."

• Explanation: This stresses the necessity of technical skills and recovery ability on challenging routes.

• A consistent aerobic base is essential for maintaining climbing performance, especially in areas like the Red River Gorge.
• Long-term aerobic training prevents loss of capillarity and mitochondria mass, which are crucial for endurance.
• Year-round commitment to aerobic training helps climbers maintain and improve their performance.

"You need to make a constant investment in that base training, as boring as it might be."

• Explanation: This quote underscores the long-term commitment required to maintain an aerobic base, even if the training seems monotonous.

"You need to have a year-round commitment to maintaining that aerobic base."

• Explanation: This reinforces the necessity of consistent aerobic training throughout the year for sustained climbing success.

• Endurance training is not only physical but also mental, helping climbers push through discomfort and fatigue.
• The mental aspect of climbing involves overcoming "stopping thoughts" and continuing despite physical pain.
• Experience and exposure to challenging climbs help in developing mental resilience.

"It's really becoming comfortable with discomfort. It friggin hurts."

• Explanation: This highlights the mental challenge of climbing, where climbers must push through physical pain.

"The only way you develop that is through experience."

• Explanation: This emphasizes the role of experience in building mental toughness and overcoming challenges in climbing.

• Aerobic adaptations include quick "soft" adaptations (enzymes, lactate transporters) and long-term "structural" adaptations (capillaries, mitochondria mass).
• Soft adaptations can be achieved in a short period, while structural adaptations require long-term investment.
• Both types of adaptations are essential for mastering endurance climbing.

"Those short term soft adaptations actually come about very quickly. In one to four weeks you can have gains in those."

• Explanation: This explains the rapid development of soft adaptations, which can be beneficial in short-term training.

"To really become a master of endurance climbing, that's not enough. You need to have the structural adaptations."

• Explanation: This stresses the importance of structural adaptations for long-term endurance climbing success.

• Running can enhance heart strength and stroke volume, aiding in better blood circulation and recovery.
• A stronger heart contributes to improved recovery between and during climbs, making running a valuable addition to climbing training.
• Many elite climbers incorporate running into their training regimes for these benefits.

"A very beneficial adaptation of doing at least a little running, say three days a week is you will develop a stronger heart."

• Explanation: This highlights the cardiovascular benefits of running, which can enhance climbing performance through better recovery.

"Many of them are runners. So again it comes down to how much time you have to invest in training."

• Explanation: This points out that many top climbers use running to improve their cardiovascular fitness, which supports their climbing endeavors.

• Busy climbers may not always have time for comprehensive preparation, especially in aerobic conditioning.
• Effective training methods include structured workouts like "two minutes on, two minutes off" on a tread wall and interval training.
• Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training can enhance both physiological adaptations and mental toughness by simulating the "pump" feeling in a controlled environment.

"As a very busy climber, I don't often have the time to be able to do everything I'd like to do to prepare, especially on the aerobic side."

• Highlights the time constraints faced by climbers and the need for efficient training strategies.

"The benefit of that is that it instantly puts on that exploding pump feeling, like within 30 seconds of having the cuffs on and doing a couple feet on the ground."

• Describes how BFR training can quickly simulate challenging climbing conditions to improve endurance and mental resilience.

• Initial days should focus on easier climbs to acclimate and build endurance.
• Utilize the natural friction of the Red River Gorge to aid climbing efforts.
• Embrace discomfort to push beyond perceived limits and stimulate endurance adaptations.
• Skin care is crucial due to increased friction; products like Rhino Skin can be beneficial.

"Your first handful of days you're going to want to drop your level down a bit...spend most of your time trying to send things that are a number grade below your project level."

• Advises on starting with easier climbs to build confidence and endurance.

"Get used to using the friction to your advantage...if you can let the friction do some of it."

• Suggests leveraging the unique friction of the climbing area to enhance performance.

• The steep climbs at the Red River Gorge can be intimidating and require mental adjustment.
• Falling on steep routes feels different; climbers should acclimate to the sensation of falling with more air beneath them.
• Skin wear and tear is a significant issue for high-end climbers, requiring effective skin care strategies.

"If you're a first time visitor or somebody that's not used to the steep climbing, it can be very intimidating."

• Acknowledges the mental challenges faced by newcomers to steep climbing environments.

"You need to ease into it...becoming comfortable falling like you said, Ryan, it's quite different taking little whippers on a slab."

• Emphasizes the need for gradual acclimation to both the physical and psychological aspects of steep climbing.

• Proper nutrition and hydration are essential for maintaining endurance and performance, especially during multi-day climbs.
• Immediate post-climb nutrition is crucial for recovery; products like Sendurex and protein supplements can aid in this process.
• Moderation in alcohol consumption is advised to optimize climbing performance.

"You need to fuel throughout the day and then when you're done climbing, start fueling and recovering as soon as you can."

• Stresses the importance of continuous nutrition and recovery strategies during climbing trips.

"I try not to have more than the one I will shout out as well. Because you brought up nutrition and recovery for the pump Fizzy vantage, which of course is your company, Eric."

• Highlights the role of specific supplements in supporting climbing performance and recovery.

• Climbing strategies should be tailored to individual experience levels and goals.
• Veterans may focus on smaller holds and advanced techniques, while beginners should focus on building foundational skills.
• Attention to detail and personalized strategies can provide the marginal gains needed to achieve climbing objectives.

"If you're someone who's more of a veteran climber, really trying to get that 1% gain to send your project, then the little things really do matter."

• Underlines the importance of personalized strategies and attention to detail for experienced climbers aiming for incremental improvements.

• The importance of immediate post-climb nutrition is emphasized, particularly the intake of protein and carbohydrates to aid recovery until a full meal can be consumed.
• The active ingredients in Sendurex, beetroot extract, and citrulline malate, work together to vasodilate the capillary system, enhancing blood flow and recovery.
• Vasodilation reduces resistance in the capillaries, allowing for improved blood flow to muscles, which is crucial for recovery and performance.
• Warming up naturally triggers vasodilation, but supplements like Sendurex can expedite this process, benefiting aerobic activities such as climbing and swimming.

"When you take the Sendurex, those capillaries which normally are basically one-lane highways, the red blood cells have to line up one after another like cars in a construction zone where there's one lane. When you vasodilate the capillary, you turn it into a two-lane."

• This quote explains how Sendurex improves blood flow by expanding capillaries, allowing more efficient circulation, which is essential for muscle recovery.

• The low point technique involves starting a climb from a higher point rather than the ground to practice and perfect the top sections of a route.
• This method helps reprogram mental scripts, allowing climbers to overcome habitual falls at specific points by practicing those sections more frequently.
• The technique is particularly useful for pumpy climbs, where maintaining energy and technique through the final moves is crucial.
• It helps climbers identify necessary changes in beta or find resting spots that were previously unnoticed.

"For me, I kept falling at the chains. I got to the point where mentally I was like, okay, here's where I fall as I was going into that last sequence and I rewrote that script in my mind after doing a few days of low pointing and actually getting through that last move and getting to the chains."

• This quote highlights how the low point technique can change a climber's mental approach, helping them overcome specific challenges in their climbing route.

• The low point technique teaches climbers to protect their send by practicing the most challenging sections repeatedly, ensuring they can complete the route when reaching those points during a full climb.
• It allows climbers to experiment with different strategies and techniques for specific sections, enhancing overall efficiency and effectiveness.
• The technique encourages climbers to focus on the most challenging parts of a climb, rather than expending unnecessary energy on easier sections.

"The low point is so valuable for a lot of reasons. But you know, number one, what you mentioned, it sort of reprograms you to be able to climb through that spot where you've been falling."

• This quote underscores the value of the low point technique in helping climbers overcome specific challenges by focusing practice on problematic sections.

• Climbers are encouraged to practice the last two bolts or challenging sections more than the rest of the route to ensure success when reaching those points.
• The technique is contrasted with climbing until failure and then resting, which does not provide the same benefits as low pointing in terms of technique refinement and endurance building.
• Low pointing is a strategic approach that can prevent climbers from spending entire seasons repeatedly falling at the same point.

"When I'm rehearsing a route, I go out of my way to practice, you know, the last two bolts. Multiple times more than I do the rest of the climb."

• This quote highlights the focused practice on challenging sections, ensuring climbers are prepared to complete the route when reaching those points.

• The podcast provides a comprehensive overview of climbing strategies, emphasizing the importance of nutrition and specific techniques like low pointing for performance improvement.
• Listeners are encouraged to explore additional resources such as books, websites, and social media for further training insights and community engagement.

"A training and performance roundtable on climbing at the Red River Gorge or any climbing area that is steep and pumpy."

• This quote summarizes the podcast's focus on providing climbers with effective strategies for improving performance in challenging climbing environments.