In her biography "Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life," Justine Picardie reveals the complex tapestry of Coco Chanel's life, interwoven with fabrications to obscure her humble origins. Chanel, renowned for revolutionizing women's fashion with her simple, elegant designs, including the iconic little black dress and Chanel No. 5 perfume, built an empire that made her one of the richest women of her time. Despite her success, Chanel's past was marred by attempts to exploit wartime anti-Semitic laws to gain control of her perfume business, a move that would later damage her reputation. Yet, Chanel's relentless drive stemmed from a desire for independence, fueled by a difficult childhood and a determination to never rely on anyone else. Her story is one of triumph over adversity, the power of reinvention, and the pursuit of freedom, both personal and sartorial.
"Those on whom legends are built are their legends, declared Coco Chanel."
This quote illustrates Chanel's belief in the power of individuals to shape their own legacies.
"I don't like the family, she told Delay. You're born in it, not of it. I don't know anything more terrifying than the family."
Chanel expresses her disdain for the familial bonds that she felt were imposed rather than chosen.
"Childhood. You speak of it when you're very tired, because it's a time when you had hopes, expectations."
Chanel reflects on childhood as a period of hope and potential, suggesting it holds emotional significance despite her attempts to distance herself from her past.
"In addition to her being one of the most successful entrepreneurs ever live, and maybe creating one of the best, or not, maybe definitely creating one of the best well known brands that has ever existed in human history."
This quote highlights Chanel's extraordinary success as an entrepreneur and the lasting impact of her brand.
"For the numbers I'm about to tell you, she gets 2% of all the sales of Chanel number five and all the other perfumes that estimated to pay her $25 million a year in the 1940s."
The quote details the lucrative deal Chanel secured, reflecting her business acumen and the financial success of her perfume line.
"When my customers come to me, they like to cross the threshold of some magic place."
Chanel describes the transformative experience she aimed to provide for her customers, emphasizing the allure of her brand.
"Legend is the consecration of fame."
This quote encapsulates Chanel's philosophy on the intertwining of legend and the sanctification of her brand's fame.
"I wanted to be sure that I was loved, but I lived with people who showed no pity."
Chanel's reflection on her desire for love and the lack of compassion she experienced as a child.
"Chanel spent seven years in the orphanage until she was 18. Her father never returned to see her or her siblings."
The quote conveys the abandonment Chanel felt from her family, deepening her resolve to be self-reliant.
"She must earn her living like other orphans, and there was always work available for her seamstress."
This quote indicates Chanel's early independence and the beginnings of her career in fashion.
"Instead of retelling her life story, she did something which I think is actually smart. She created a new one, a story that she could control."
The quote reflects Chanel's strategy to overcome her past by crafting a new, self-determined identity.
"Soon the audience greeted her with calls and christened her with the name of the lost dog."
This quote explains how Gabrielle Chanel acquired the nickname "Coco" from her audience, which became a significant part of her identity.
"Balsan introduced a little orphan seamstress into a decadent world."
This quote indicates Balsan's role in Coco Chanel's entrance into an affluent and opulent society, which significantly impacted her future.
"Coco described herself as free and unencumbered, dressing neither as a great lady nor as a maid."
This quote reflects Coco Chanel's early fashion sense and her desire to stand out through her clothing choices.
"What she did want was to earn her own living."
This quote underscores Coco Chanel's drive for financial independence and her refusal to be a kept woman.
"Nothing makes a woman look older than obvious expensiveness or innateness and complications."
This quote encapsulates Chanel's philosophy on fashion, emphasizing simplicity and elegance over complexity and ostentation.
"I am not here to have fun or to spend money like water. I'm here to make a fortune."
This quote reveals Chanel's ambition and determination to succeed in her business, highlighting her focus on financial success and independence.
"The boys don't understand. My edge is that I'm a woman. I know what women want."
This quote shows Chanel's confidence in her insight into women's fashion needs and her belief that her gender gave her an edge over her male competitors.
"In her words, the last reflections of a baroque style in which the ornate had killed off the figure, in which over embellishment had stifled the body's architecture."
This quote underscores Chanel's critique of the baroque style's complexity and her intent to create a new fashion paradigm focusing on the body's natural form.
"I imposed black. It's still going strong today for black wipes out everything else around."
Chanel's quote highlights her influential decision to popularize black in fashion, which continues to be a staple in the industry.
"I'm not an artist. I'm an artisan. I work with my hands, and I have precision and commitment to my craft."
Chanel's self-description emphasizes her hands-on approach and meticulous dedication to the craft of fashion design.
"Those colors made me feel ill. Coco made a vow to herself, those colors are impossible. These women, I'm bloody well going to dress them in black."
Chanel's aversion to bright colors used by other designers led to her commitment to dressing women in black, reinforcing the idea of simplicity and independence in her design philosophy.
"Coco owned 10% of the company... the Wertheimers... wind up owning 90%."
This detail illustrates Chanel's initial business agreement with the Wertheimers, highlighting her smaller share in the highly profitable venture.
"She reinterpreted the traditional embroidered blouse. She reinterpreted a military style coat, and she reinterpreted a sailor's jacket."
The quote illustrates Chanel's process of taking existing designs and transforming them into something uniquely her own, a testament to her innovative spirit.
"Coco is here. She's really great and strong, being fit to rule a man or an empire."
Churchill's description of Chanel reflects her strong personality and the respect she commanded from influential individuals of her time.
"It is immoral to play at earning one's living."
This quote epitomizes Chanel's philosophy that work should be approached with seriousness and dedication, not casually or without effort.
"Really, sir, a woman of my age cannot be expected to look at his passport if she has the chance of a lover."
Chanel's witty response to criticism about her association with a German during the war suggests she prioritized personal relationships over political scrutiny.
"I am sure that pursuance of this line would lead you into measureless odium and vexation."
Churchill's warning to the Duke of Westminster about the dangers of seeking peace with Germany reflects the complex political landscape Chanel was involved in.
"It is a measure of her adversary's swift and adept tactics that they managed to outwit both Chanel and the Nazis."
This quote highlights the strategic brilliance of the Jewish brothers in maintaining control of their business despite Chanel's and the Nazis' attempts to seize it.
"I am only a little dressmaker trying to make women young and pretty."
Chanel's self-description underscores her focus on simplicity and practicality in fashion, setting her apart from other designers.
"Forgetting is part of freedom."
This quote captures Chanel's belief that the ability to move beyond one's past and the comfort of one's clothing are essential aspects of freedom.
"That is 199 books down, 1000 to go, and I'll talk to you again soon. Bye."
The closing remark signifies the ongoing commitment to exploring and discussing a vast number of books, with a milestone of books already covered and many more to come.